This Forum is Dedicated For all The Object Oriented PIC Lovers .......... The concept behind OOPic is straight forward. Use preprogrammed multitasking Objects from a library of highly optimized Objects to do all the work of interacting with the hardware. Then write small scripts in Basic, C, or Java syntax styles to control the Objects. During operation, the Objects run continuously and simultaneously in the background while the scripts run in the foreground telling the objects what to do.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

[oopic] Re: H-Bridge issue...maybe.

> The part a bout the MOSFET and relay seems like the most solid
solution.
> Would I be correct in assuming that you were suggesting that the
relay would
> be an open switch when either the OOPic was off, or when the OOPic
was
> starting up, including the 500 delay (which I have included after
seeing it
> so highly recommended here by you and others). Then I would close
the relay
> via the MOSFET, and leave it closed all the time that the OOPic was
running.
> This could be accomplished using a logic level MOSFET, which I
probably have
> lying around. Is there any particular relay you would recommend?
>
> I'm inclined to actually go in that direction first simply because
it seems
> more definitive than using the resistors to bias the input. Perhaps
that's
> not the best reason to choose one technique over another. The
resistors
> would certainly be cheaper, but neither solutions is actually
expensive, so
> I tend to favor the definitive one. Is that wrong?

I guess I am nervous about a situation where the H-Bridge needs an
active signal to STOP the motor. The H-Bridges we have discussed
before all stopped when the PWM stopped. Or, failing that, we could
apply the brakes by suitably wiggling the 2 control lines.

So, yes, I am thinking that the relay (with an adequate contact
rating) will always control the 'master' power to the H-Bridge. This
implies that there could be other things in the circuit that might
drop out the coil. Maybe a panic button/switch?

You need to decide on a coil voltage and since you don't have 12V, it
will probably have to be 5V. As a result, you want the coil current
as low as possible. And don't forget the reverse biased 1N4001 diode
across the coil to limit the kickback voltage.

I started at DigiKey and things didn't look easy. I went to Mouser
and they have a much nicer way to look through relays that are
actually in stock. Still better would be to get a paper catalog (or
even a .pdf) and search until what you like is what they stock.

Richard


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